This pot of refried beans started as a small kitchen experiment after a trip that took me from Oaxaca’s bustling mercados to quiet roadside loncherías where the beans were so creamy they could stand on a spoon like soft frosting. I wanted that velvety texture and deep, savory flavor at home, without shortcuts, and I learned quickly that it is all about gentle simmering, generous seasoning, and patient pan-frying. The result is a bowl of beans that tastes like it came from a family kitchen, with a sheen of flavorful fat and the kind of comfort that invites a second helping. The first time I nailed the consistency, it happened on a rainy Sunday. I had soaked the beans the night before and added epazote I had tucked into the freezer. The fragrance was unmistakable: earthy and herbal, with a hint of sweetness from onion and garlic. When I mashed the beans in a hot skillet and heard them sputter, they transformed into something lush yet sturdy enough to spread in a tortilla. These beans are the kind that make tacos feel complete, that cozy up to rice, and that hold their own at the center of a dinner plate.

Ingredients

• Pinto beans: Choose dried pinto beans that look clean and evenly colored. Older beans can take longer to cook, so buy from a store with good turnover. Half a pound yields about 3 cups cooked beans.
• Onion and garlic: A half onion and a couple of cloves provide savory backbone. I prefer yellow onion for sweetness and garlic that is fresh and firm, not sprouted.
• Epazote or oregano: Epazote adds classic herbal notes and is traditional in Mexican kitchens; if you cannot find it, dried oregano offers a reliable, familiar flavor.
• Bay leaf: A small bay leaf infuses a gentle floral aroma that rounds out the broth; remove it before frying.
• Fat for frying: Lard or bacon drippings deliver old-school richness; olive oil or unsalted butter makes a lighter version. Use what fits your taste and diet.
• Reserved cooking liquid: Save at least 1 cup of the bean broth. It is liquid gold that helps emulsify and turn the mash silky.
• Salt and black pepper: Season generously. Add salt toward the end of simmering to protect bean skins, then adjust once the beans are mashed.
• Optional toppings: Crumbled queso fresco or cotija and chopped cilantro add creamy, salty brightness that plays perfectly with the beans.

Instructions

Soak the beans: Place 1/2 pound dried pinto beans in a large bowl and cover with cold water by several inches. Soak overnight to hydrate and shorten cooking time. Drain and rinse before cooking. If you forget to soak, simmer longer and check often for tenderness. Simmer until tender: Transfer soaked beans to a large pot with 1/2 medium onion (quartered), 2 lightly smashed garlic cloves, 2 sprigs epazote or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, and 1 small bay leaf. Add 6 cups water, bring to a boil, skim foam, then simmer gently 1.5 to 2 hours until very tender. Salt toward the end. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Sauté the aromatics: Heat 4 tablespoons lard or bacon drippings (or 2 tablespoons olive oil or unsalted butter) in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons minced onion and cook 3 to 4 minutes until translucent and fragrant, stirring so the onions soften without browning. Fry and mash: Add the cooked beans and a generous splash of the reserved liquid to the skillet. Mash with a potato masher, scraping the pan so beans fry and thicken. Cook 7 to 10 minutes, adding small splashes of liquid as needed until creamy but still spoonable. Season and serve: Taste and season with salt and ground black pepper. For a richer finish, stir in another teaspoon of fat. Top with crumbled queso fresco or cotija and cilantro if you like. Serve hot as a side or inside tacos and burritos.

Storage Tips

Cool the beans to room temperature within 2 hours, then transfer to shallow airtight containers. Refrigerate for up to 4 days, keeping a small amount of cooking liquid or water on hand to loosen when reheating. For freezing, portion into freezer-safe containers or zip-top bags, press flat for quick thawing, and freeze for up to 3 months. Reheat gently on the stovetop over medium-low heat with a splash of water or broth, stirring frequently until creamy. Skip the microwave if possible, since stovetop stirring helps revive the silky texture and prevents scorching. Beans should smell fresh and nutty; discard if sour or excessively dry and crumbly after thawing.

Ingredient Substitutions

If you cannot find epazote, use 1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano or 1 teaspoon regular dried oregano. For a vegetarian version, choose olive oil or unsalted butter instead of lard or bacon drippings; olive oil gives a clean flavor, while butter adds dairy richness. Pinto beans are traditional, but you can swap with black beans for a slightly sweeter, earthier result; cook time is similar. No bay leaf? Add a pinch of ground cumin during the fry step for warm depth. If you prefer a lighter salt profile, use fine sea salt and season gradually. For a spicy variation, stir in 1 to 2 teaspoons minced jalapeño during the sauté step.

Serving Suggestions

Serve these beans alongside Mexican rice, grilled carne asada, or roasted vegetables. Spoon them into warm flour or corn tortillas with cotija, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime. Layer them on tostadas beneath shredded lettuce and pico de gallo, or tuck them into breakfast burritos with scrambled eggs. For game day, keep a skillet warm and set out toppings like salsa verde, pickled onions, and crema. A drizzle of good olive oil, a dusting of smoked paprika, or extra crumbled queso fresco make excellent finishing touches.

Cultural Background

Refried beans, or frijoles refritos, hail from Mexican home kitchens where beans are cooked once, then fried and mashed to concentrate flavor. The “refrito” does not mean fried twice; it refers to cooking well and thoroughly. Lard has long been the traditional fat, prized for its savory depth and smooth mouthfeel. Regional nuances abound: some cooks prefer black beans in the south, others use pinto beans in the north, and many add epazote for aroma. Sharing a pot of beans is as cultural as it is culinary, symbolizing comfort, thrift, and everyday hospitality.

Seasonal Adaptations

In winter, lean into warm spices by blooming a pinch of cumin or smoked paprika in the fat before mashing the beans. Spring invites fresh toppings like radishes and extra cilantro. Summer begs for grilled corn folded through at the end for sweetness and texture. In fall, a spoonful of roasted green chiles adds gentle heat. For holidays, make a double batch the day before and reheat with a splash of broth, setting out toppings for a make-your-own tostada bar that suits a crowd.

Meal Prep Tips

Cook the beans on a quiet evening, then store them in their cooking liquid. When ready to serve, fry and mash only what you need, keeping portions flexible for the week. For lunches, pack 1/2 cup portions in microwave-safe containers with a tablespoon of cooking liquid; reheat gently and stir. If you plan to freeze, portion in 1-cup amounts for easy taco nights. Label containers with dates and whether they include lard or olive oil so you can match them to the meal and guests’ preferences.

These beans bring warmth to the table without complication. Keep a pot simmering now and then, and you will always have the makings of a great meal, whether it is a simple taco, a hearty burrito, or a comforting spoonful alongside your favorite mains.